Moselle Castles & Vineyards

A day to meander with (and across) the Moselle as its cycle path leads through open landscapes to a narrower vineyard-filled valley, dotted with refreshing Weingut discoveries.

On leaving Trier, you won’t be leaving the Ancients behind. It was the Romans who introduced vines to the region around 2,000 years ago and their legacies are very much in evidence as you push your pedals towards Piesport and its ‘Goldtropfchen’ (little drop of gold) vineyards.

Choose to swing by Mehring for a helping of mosaics at the Villa Rustica, a reconstruction of a Roman country residence, or park up in Trittenheim for a wine-trail-and-panoramas wander through the vineyards to the restored Laurentiuskapelle (chapel). There are more Roman connections in Neumagen-Dhon, Germany’s oldest wine-producing village. Look out for the ship carving on a Roman wine merchant’s grave by the Peterskapelle – and the replica vessel on the river! Destination for the day, Piesport, has a Roman something to boast about too – the largest Roman wine cellar north of the Alps. Who can refuse that invitation to sit and sip a while?

Overnight in Piesport.

Miles 30 Kms 48

Time to explore the ‘Mittelmosel’, home to some of the Valley’s best-loved vineyard towns and villages, with market places lined with ‘Fachwerkhäuser’ (half-timbered houses) and hilltop castles above.

Keep your eyes peeled for mermaids (or listen out for sirens) as you pedal off past the Loreley of the Moselle – the massive rocky outcrop rising up from the river bank, where mythical creatures may have lured bewitched sailors onto the rocks. If it’s romantic fairytales you’re after in this land of orchards, vineyards and super-scenic cycling, then Bernkastel-Kues surely won’t disappoint. With its iconic Landshut castle looking down towards cobbled streets and half-timbered houses with ornate signs, it’s one of the Moselle’s most popular spots. Understandably, you’ll find it brimful of characterful taverns and Weinkellern, but the town also serves up everything you ever wanted to know about Riesling at the Moselle Wine Museum (Vinothek), located in the vaulted cellars of St Niklaus-Hospital (15th century poor hospital).

Further up the cycle path, Zeltingen-Rachtig has a gentler charm, combining half-timbered buildings with touches of Baroque splendour. There’s the tempting Kloster Machern (Cistercian monastery) to visit too which has both a brewery and wine cellar, as well as gardens and museums.

The typical Moselle villages and their ‘Lokale’ (riverside refreshment stops) are plentiful in this timeless landscape, but look up and out for the historic vineyard sundials on the steepening slopes near Zeltingen and opposite, the sundial-laden village of Wehlen.

To top things off nicely, Traben-Trarbach seems to harvest the day’s discoveries into one satisfying mini-showcase. From the Mittlemosel Museum to the town’s must-visit underground vaults, or its curly shop signs and pleasing architectural swirls to the Brücke Tor or ruins of Gravenburg castle, there’s so much to enjoy, even before you discover what it is perhaps most famed for today – its Art Nouveau and Belle Epoque influences and masterpieces.

Overnight in Traben-Trarbach.

Miles 25 Kms 40

Enter into the world of the ‘Terrassenmosel’, where the narrowing river valley sees its vines clinging to ever-steeper slopes, with valley sides engineered into precarious terraces supported by dry stone walls. It’s a mighty spectacle that will take your breath away, as you spin gently along the easy-going, river-hugging Moselle Cycle Path.

Burg , Pünderich, Briedel… a string of half-timbered villages with sharp-steepled churches provide the eye-candy as a meaty meander appears on the Moselle menu. The famous Zeller Hamm is an ox-bow lake in the making, best viewed from the Marienburg, on the tiny neck of the meander. Surrounded by vineyards including the Zeller Schwartze Katze (black cat) , it’s no surprise that this hugely picturesque part of cycle path is lined with opportunities to get a taste of the place. Even if you stop off for ‘Kaffee und Kuchen’ (coffee and cake), there’s sure to be an irresistible local something to tempt your tastebuds.

Past Bullay’s double decker bridge, the Moselle Valley slopes get seriously steep with The Calmont vineyards beyond Bremm reaching the lofty heights of Europe’s steepest vineyard. Look up to see brave souls tackling the rocky ridges of the Calmont ‘Kletterstieg’. Park up and join them if you dare, or why not conquer another couple of meanders and cross to the fairytale village of Beilstein – ‘Moselle’s Sleeping Beauty’?

A day packed with Moselle show-stoppers can only end with castle-topped Cochem. The imposing dark fortifications of the Neo-Gothic Reichsburg surrounded by woodland lord it over the riverscape, whilst the heart of the old town is all Baroque flourishes in pastel shades, ornate marketplace fountains and decorative gables. With such dramatic scenery, it’s a great place to take to the water on a boat trip, or spend a lazy evening along the riverside promenade enjoying its views and cafés.

Overnight in Cochem.

Miles: 34 Kms: 55

Just when you think you’ve seen more Moselle castles than you’ve packed picnics in your panniers, the river valley with its vineyard terraces pulls out the final stops!

Leaving the Moselle Valley’s largest castle behind you in Cochem, tight meanders swap out for straighter stretches of river and deliver different sorts of panoramas from the cycle path. Look out for the three towers of the collegiate church (Moseldom) at Treis-Karden and Burg Eltz, a massive turreted castle straight out of a fairy story. The short detour up the steep wooded valley side to visit this well-preserved, dramatic, yet whimsical castle simply has to be worth it!

Pedal onwards to find round-towered Burg Bishofstein sitting almost right on the river bank. In contrast, 12th century crag-top Ehrenburg Castle peeps out from the woodland horizon, but you’ll want to stop off at riverside Alken, for a closer look at its sprawling double castle, Burg Thurant, perched above the village and its vineyards. If you find that you’ve fallen in love with the Moselle’s fairytale ‘Fachwerkhäuser’ (half-timbered houses), then Alken is sure to please, so too the medieval marketplace with its dragon fountain in Kobern-Gondorf, reputedly home to Germany’s oldest half-timbered property (1320).

For one last ‘Fachwerkhaus’ fix before big Wine City Koblenz, hold onto those handlebars for a pedal across the cobbles around the picturesque wine village of Winningen to whet your whistle with a glass of ‘Winninger Uhlen’ at the Weingut.

Finally, accompany the Moselle on the last stage of its river journey towards the ‘Deutsches Eck’ – the point where it meets the River Rhine. For the very best monuments-and-river views, the cable car trip across the Rhine to the 16th century Ehrenbreitstein fortress is an absolute must (included in tour price). A river trip is also a great way to see the bigger picture – but don’t miss the finer detail too, like the turreted Alte Burg (castle), historic squares and ‘Kunstgässchen’ (decorated little alleyways) near the Liebfrauenkirche (church) in old town Koblenz.

Overnight in Koblenz

Miles: 30 Kms: 49

Take a final wander around Koblenz or dive into one of its many museums – from sparkling wine and fine art to railways, fishing, military hardware, carnival traditions, the River Rhine and even Beethoven’s mother(!), Koblenz has a fascinating museum treat for everyone. Sample somewhere, or maybe plan to stay another day to two to top up your Moselle river experiences with a chance to get to know the River Rhine?

Extra nights can be booked in Koblenz to allow more time to explore.